In Search of the Perfect Heel
How is our sock knit-along going on your end? So far I have finished one and a half new socks (of 2 new designs) and I’m also pretty excited to start one more new design idea… Sock knitting is a big deal for me this Spring! But other than that, I also wanted to chat a bit about the most feared and fun part of sock knitting: The Heel!
If the soul of a sock is its stitch pattern, the heel is its heart. It’s the part that carries the weight, does the bending, and gets the most wear. And yet, there's no one right way to knit a heel, just a complete array of beautifully different techniques, each with its own strengths, quirks, and personality.
Whether you’re drawn to the structure of a flap and gusset, the clean lines of an afterthought heel, or the sculptural magic of short rows, learning different heel techniques opens up a world of sock-knitting possibilities. But one thing is certain: mastering heel techniques is all about finding your perfect fit! Because if the heel doesn’t fit, the sock doesn’t fit. Kind of like if the yoke of the sweater is too big or small, the sweater is all off.
Let’s take a closer look at three popular options—and what makes each one special.
Flap and Gusset Heels: The Classic Type
This is the heel most people picture when they think of a traditional sock. Worked from the top down, it features a heel flap, a turning section that creates the bend, and a gusset that provides shaping and ease.
This is the heel I learned in school and also my go-to heel. You can work it just as well for cuff-down and toe-up socks too. I love this heel because it’s structured, supportive, and durable - and a great choice for high insteps. There’s lots of room for customization with stitch patterns on the flap (slip stitches, eye-of-partridge, etc.) making it very versatile and easy to modify for different designs. It’s also one type you can easily reinforce if you're a hard walker.
Yes, the construction is slightly more involved with quite a few steps (and ways to actually turn the heel). And in some cases it can be a bit bulky in tighter-fitting shoes if worked too thickly. But I haven’t really ever had a problem of the heel being too thick or bulky. Bear in mind that I’m the one who easily destroys any pair of sock (and heel especially) by normal walking, inside, no shoes…
Short-Row Heels: Sleek and Seamless
Short-row heels—like the German short row or wrap-and-turn method—form a clean, almost invisible curve using just one continuous section of knitting. These types are also varied by different short row methods and stitch patterns.
I love this style because there’s no need to pick up stitches—just turn, shape, and go. The heel will be smooth, with minimal fabric and no added bulk. Great for toe-up socks or where you want uninterrupted stitch patterns, think colorwork or lace or other pattern you want to ne continuous..
The problem is that the shape is less forgiving for high insteps or strong arches - unless the heel is carefully shaped. Some knitters find the fit a bit too shallow, though some tweaks can help.
Afterthought Heels: Like a Thumb for Your Sock
The afterthought heel is added in after the main sock tube is knit—like inserting a thumb on a mitten. It’s perfect for uninterrupted striping or colorwork, and it creates a neat, rounded heel with a wedge shape. This type is also known as Peasant Heel.
It’s also Ideal for planned striping or intricate patterns—no need to break the flow. It's also super easy to replace later if it wears out - definitely an upside with my rate of wearing down socks. There’s something magical in knitting an afterthought heel: suddenly a tube is transformed into a 3-dimensional object!
This type of heel is less stretchy than other heels unless extra stitches are added. And that’s why it can feel snug if not adjusted to the wearer’s foot shape.
Here we are, 3 heel techniques later. Now to the obvious question: which heel is best?
The answer is wonderfully subjective. Some knitters stick to one technique forever. Others switch it up depending on yarn, fit, and mood. The best part? You don’t have to choose just one. Try them all, take notes, and find your perfect heel library. And note that this is just a glimpse of all the varieties! I’m barely scratching the surface.
You might love a flap and gusset for hiking socks, a short-row for summer lace, and an afterthought for all your self-striping treasures. Socks are small enough to experiment freely, and heels are where that freedom really shines.
What’s your favorite heel technique? Do you have one you return to time after time, or do you love exploring them all? I’d love to hear your go-to methods, and if you're curious about trying something new—this might be your sign.